Sunday, May 15, 2011

The Ghosts of Greenwich Village #2: The San Remo Cafe


(William Burroughs, left, standing outside the San Remo)

The San Remo CafĂ© at 189 Bleecker St. was located on the northwest corner of MacDougal and Bleecker, occupying two storefronts. The mob-owned bar was taken over by writers and artists. Though the Italan owners and locals were hostile to gays and outsiders, they begrudgingly tolerated their business. Allen Ginsberg drank at the Remo before and after his stint at the New York Psychiatric Institute. Hanging out at the bar were writers from the Partisan Review like Clement Greenberg and Delmore Schwartz hung out there, as did the poets Frank O’Hara and W.H. Auden (on opposite sides of the bar). The bar’s literary heyday went from the end of World War II to the late 1950s.

During the early 1950s, Judith Malina and Julian Beck’s theater company The Living Theatre made the Remo their de facto headquarters and the center of their parties when they were renting the nearby Cherry Lane Theatre and doing such iconoclastic shows as Genet‘s “The Maids.” The novelist Gore Vidal proudly boasts that he picked up Beat legend Jack Kerouac, took him back to the Chelsea Hotel and screwed him.

The bartenders and bouncers at the San Remo, considered to be “minor Mafia” by the hipster patrons, were a bit too liberal with the baseball bat kept under the bar. Frank O’Hara immortalized the incipient violence of the staff of the Remo in one of his poems, “The penalty of the Big Town/ is the Big Stick.”

By 1960, the Remo had become primarily a gay bar, stocked with hustlers that hung out at Washington Square Park, and the “A-men,” gay men on amphetamines. Andy Warhol loved the Remo, and stocked his early Factory with men he found at the bar. One of his infatuations was the dancer Freddy Herko, who starred in Rosalyn Drexler’s “Home Movies” at nearby Judson Poets Theatre. Herko’s career was cut short when under the influence, he danced out of a six-story window.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Ghosts of Greenwich Village: Minetta Tavern

MINETTA TAVERN (113 MacDougal Street, corner of Minetta Lane).

The Minetta Tavern opened in the late 1930s and was famous as a bohemian hangout after World War II. The writer Anatole Broyard used to hang out there, trolling for women. The first-wave Abstract Expressionist Franz Kline drew the caricatures that still line the wall. Joe Gould, the famed semi-homeless bohemian, “who was allegedly writing his monumental “Oral History of the World” was paid by the management in spaghetti and meatballs to be an “actual live bohemian” for tourists to gawk at while he’d sit and write.

In 1945, a rebellious 15-year-old from the Irish enclave in the Bronx named Brigid Murnaghan, wandered into the Minetta, with a school friend, looking for the bohemian life. “I could have been taken to an opium den, for all I knew,” said Murnaghan in an interview in 2009. A friendly drinker at the Minetta told the girls that they should go to the San Remo, a more intellectual bar down the street.

In the 1940s, the Minetta was known for its house special, the manicotti, which was 75 cents a plate. A few years ago, the famed restaurateur Keith McNally took over the Minetta and turned it into a high-end bistro, where diners routinely spend $150 per person.